tēnā koutou

    Visiting the Waiwhetu Marae (pronounced: why-fay-too,  mar-i with the long i sound)

tēnā koutou (ten-a (short "a" sound), ko-toe) in the Maori language is the plural form for hello, however it seems to hold more meaning, such as hello, thank you, and welcome all wrapped in one. During Fulbright Orientation, we had the fortunate opportunity to stay overnight at the Waiwhetu Marae. A marae is a communal or sacred place that serves religious and social purposes in Polynesian societies, specifically the Maori people in New Zealand (people and language pronounced: more-ee, with a rolled "r").  

Maori has had a resurgence in the last 20 years or so... For example, in New Zealand there are Maori tv and radio stations. Maori is used by most people in correspondence as a greeting ("Kia Ora Kate"), newscasters use Maori to greet people ("Kia Ora, Good evening, welcome to the 5pm news"), signs are both in English and Maori, there are Maori only schools (Kuru), and some schools are considered Maori immersion, where both Maori and English are spoken. Government websites are both in English and Maori. There is an emphasis to restore and keep the language and heritage alive.  

A bit of history:  The Māori people of Aortearoa (New Zealand) arrived by 1300 AD. There is debate about how many waka (sea-faring canoes, pronounced wok-a (short vowel)) arrived and exactly where they started. Some say that they made their way from Ratonga (Cook Islands), while others say they came from Radiate (Society Islands). However, similarity of place names and languages suggests a link between these islands and New Zealand. What is amazing is that these brave people chartered the stormy waters in these magnificent canoes. Waka are still used today for ceremonies and during specific times of year. The waka you see below are still in use, however are kept inside. (2/15/2015, http://www.tepapa.govt.nz)

Back of the waka

Front of the waka

Front of the waka

Video of rowing the waka

In 1640, British explorer James Cook was on a quest for the "Great Southern Continent" and came upon New Zealand, instead of Antarctica. He thought New Zealand would be a good place to harvest naval supplies (from the trees and bush= timber) and oil (from the abundance of seals). Thus, colonization began. Interestingly, there is large connection between the whaling industry in New Bedford, MA, Nantucket, MA and New Zealand. Many of the sea captains from these areas in Massachusetts came to New Zealand in search of oil.

In 1840, the Treaty of Waitangi was signed between representatives of Queen Victoria of England and more than 500 Maori chiefs who represented many tribes throughout the country. The Treaty of Waitangi was supposed to establish law and government in New Zealand. The English version of the treaty stated that sovereignty (power) would be given to the Queen of England, however the way it was translated into Maori misrepresented sovereignty.  The debate still continues to this day.

What is for sure is that the Maori people have a rich history and hold fast to their traditions and customs. As Fulbright Scholars we were welcomed onto their marae and experienced some of these traditions. We were welcomed onto the marae (as all guests are) in a pōwhiri (formal welcome ceremony, pronounced poe-for-ee).  After this ceremony visitors become part of the wharna (farna, extended family) and at the conclusion of this ceremony, it is as if to say  "this is now your home and you are welcome here".

Powhiri Video and Information 

When one enters the marae a woman will come out and call to the visiting group, then a woman from the visiting group will respond. The karanga (call) is used to invite strangers to enter the marae and for the visitors to introduce themselves. It is a way to state your intentions, either coming as friend or foe. The women walk onto the marae grounds first and the men are in the back to protect the women if an enemy were to attack from behind. Shoes are taken off  before entering (to keep the marae clean and pure); the men then enter the building first, women second. At the doorway the hongi occurs (touching noses)  and a ceremony ensues. 

Meaning of Hongi

During the ceremony gifts are offered from the visitors (usually in the form of gold coins), songs are sung by both hosts and visitors, and speeches are made. 

He tangata takahi manuhiri, he marae puehu

A person who mistreats his guest has a dusty Marae (Meeting house)

We were greeted with warmth and kindness. After the karanga, we had afternoon tea. Before each meal a blessing is made. Seth, my fellow Fulbright teacher scholar, sang his beautiful song for our first meal, "Live Everyday" "Live Everyday" (song by Seth Hoffman, fellow Fulbrighter)

After the blessing, we ate and ate and ate! What feasts! Not only were our meals delicious, our communion together was inspiring. During our meals we had beautiful and enriching conversations.

During our stay we also learned a great deal about the marae and Maori heritage by having some amazing speakers. 

Speaker, Amber Kiri Aranui, who is from Te Papa Museum , she is in charge of repatriation of Maori remains.

Activity we did: We drew where our ancestors settled and then others kept taking pieces of our drawings/land. Discussion followed about how we felt having our land and heritage taken away, much like the Maori people. 

Kura Moeahu, who discussed the Treaty of Waitangi with us.

The inside of the marae. Beautiful carvings and weavings. The inside of the marae represents the inside of the body.

Weavings on the wall, represents "stairway to heaven".

Upon leaving the marae the next day, we-the visitors- sang a song to show our gratitude, as well, our hosts sang a song, and we again closed with the hongi (touching of noses). 

This was an exceptional experience. There was a sense of peace felt by all, feelings of mutual respect for our surroundings, much learning, several moments of laughter, and there was a connection to each other, the natural world, and our ancestors.

Fellow Fulbright Distinguished Awards in Teaching Recipients outside of the Waiwhetu Marae. 

Farewall Song

E hoa ma, ina te ora o te tanager

My friends, this is the essence of life

When the Big Wind Blows

While the wind and rain has made the transition into New Zealand more trying, the weather has been a good introductory lesson into life here. What I've learned so far is getting frustrated at the wind just gets your skirt wrapped around your head! Just the same, allowing the little "stuff" (and it's all little stuff)  such as learning the bus system, the wifi connections, or how to work the cell-phones, just makes your skirt (or your brain) in a tizzy if you let it.  Those annoyances, which sometimes can seem so taxing because they are so easy at home, have become great lessons. Those 'gnats' are only irritating because they make me feel as if I am not quite secure enough in this new world. However, a little vulnerability allows one to stay humble. With this self-effacing realization, gratitude radiates my heart for all of the WONDERFUL, GIVING people I have come across thus far! I have learned to appreciate how helpful and positive people have been, everyone from bus drivers, bank tellers, to immediate new close friends. When I sit back and reflect, it is truly awesome.

On my way to becoming a Wellingtonian

Here are the ways I have felt love within my first week as a Wellingtonian (in no particular order):

Feeling of Love Number One: Bryan and Michelle insisted on picking me up from the airport at midnight. Bryan met me with Kate, their 17 year old daughter. Bryan then gave me a quick tour of Wellington on our late night drive from the airport. When I arrived at their lovely home, both kids (Louis-15, Kate-17) stayed up with Bryan and Michelle , and we talked until close to 2am! ( I should mention that their love was felt before I left the States with multiple Skypes and offerings of assistance). That next morning, I was able to sleep in, shower, and then Bryan toured me around, as well as got me settled with my cell-phone and groceries. What a relief!

View from Bryan and Michelle's home! 

Feeling of Love Number Two: I landed in Beverly Randell and Susan Price's apartment. They have opened their beautiful home, with a self-contained 2 bedroom flat on their first level. What a thrill to meet this legend, especially as we  casually sat down and discussed education for an hour or more!

My living room in Beverly Randell's home.

Feeling of Love Number Three:  On my second day in NZ, Michelle, Bryan, and Kate picked me up and we toured around Wellington.  We visited the beautiful suburbs of Wellington, the Weta Cave Workshop (Peter Jackson- Lord of the Rings),  and the amazing views of Mt. VIC and to the chagrin of my waistline,  I had my first Hokey Pokey Ice Cream. They then had me to their house for a beautiful BBQ. At around 9pm Michelle and Kate brought me to my house and then allowed me to change and refresh so that I could meet my fellow Fulbright Teacher Scholars for an evening in town. Michelle dropped me off in Wellington to visit with my friends.

View from Mt Victoria

Weta Cave Workshop

Feeling of Love Number Four:  Meeting with my fellow Fulbright friends, Lauren and Seth, on one of my first evenings. It was so wonderful to be connected with them on one of my first nights in New Zealand. There is is sense that these are my people- we are family. Not only Seth and Lauren, but the rest of our lot- Den, Shahnaz, Cheri, Hakan...it is a blessing to be around like minded people, we can have fun and laugh, yet also switch instantaneously to professional discussions without feeling out of place.  I am honored to be in their cohort. There is a reason we all are together. We have discovered some of these reasons and as the next few months unfold, we will uncover more reasons why the universe has brought us together.

Fellow Fulbright Distinguished Award in Teaching Recipients 

Feeling of Love Number Five: The bus driver. I was trying to take the bus to the Karori Campus of VIC (Victoria University), no small task for this newbie. As I got on the # 3 bus, I asked the bus driver if this was the bus to the VIC Karori Campus, he replied "No, bus #23". I got off and looked  bashfully  at my bus map. However, three seconds later, the bus driver stopped the bus (full of passengers on the busiest street in the city), got off, and told me "No, I'm sorry,  please get on my bus, I was wrong". I couldn't believe it! A bus driver in the capital city stopped his bus, got off, and invited me back on! (And no one seemed annoyed, people gleefully offered their further assistance). 

It's not the bus, but it the Cable Car, one way I get into the city . Public transport  at its best!(Pretty cool view, too!)

Feeling of Love Number Six: ASB Bank. Thanks to Michelle and Bryan, they set up an appointment with the bank so I could set up a bank account in NZ. Contrary to the information given to me by my USA bank, I could not easily do a wire transfer from NZ. I needed to initiate this transaction through a conversation with my bank in the USA. The bank manager at the NZ bank tried every which way for me to call my bank at home, after about 30 minutes we did reach my bank who kept telling me they could not help me until tomorrow at 9am (to which I replied that would be my 3am!) moreover, I will forever remember the help from Teharo.

Feeling of Love Number Seven: Dinner with my alumni host. My Fulbright alumni host is a well-known veteran in the education field. Bill, a Ministry of Education official who is well known in New Zealand and his dear wife, Sally, who is a principal of a local school, hosted Seth (fellow Fulbright Teacher) and I for a lovely dinner at their Wadestown home overlooking the city. They welcomed Seth and myself into their home for dinner, offered any help we may need, and offered their home as their own. 

Bill and Sally Barret, my lovely Fulbright alumni hosts

Feeling of Love Number Eight: Everyone says "See ya". What a friendly gesture at the end of every casual conversation. I love that the store clerks say "See ya" and "No Worries" like they know they will see you again and that they are happy to help without reservation. 

Feeling of Love Number Nine:  Although I am living in a city, much the size of Providence or New Haven, if you ask a businessman for directions, he will turn up from his thoughts, first smile, and then gladly point you on your way. He ensures you know what direction you are going.

Feeling of Love Number Ten: Although I am just about as far as you can get away from home, the support I have been given by old friends, family, new friends, and strangers, keeps me grounded and feeling blessed. Kia Ora. 

Nick Jackson, fellow PC Friar from Wellington who connected me to Bryan and Michelle! THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH, NICK!

Carolyn Brum, wonderful family friend who connected me with Nick, who in turn connected me with Bryan and Michelle. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!

* Next blog will be about our wonderful, educational, and enriching stay at the Marae and visit to Parliament . It promises to be more educational. 

Sydney: Can you say “Love"?

My final impressions of Sydney have left me longing for an expedition and with the internal understanding that this is “the start to something good”. What an amazing way to start this journey of discovery. Have you ever felt that you are in the place that you are meant to be, at that very moment in time? Well, that is how I felt in Sydney. 

Sydney is a large city, an ideal mix between San Francisco and San Diego. Pure Perfection. I found the people to be friendly and helpful. I found the city to be large, yet walkable, clean and safe. 

Although it rained two of the four days we were in Sydney, the city managed to entice my energy and dance with my spirit. I may just have to return sooner rather than later. I know Australia has a lot to offer, but city-wise, it may just be my new favorite (lo siento Prague, San Francisco, and Barcelona). 

On the first day we arrived, after the cell-phone mishap, we felt “quite chipper” and we decided to hop aboard the public ferry, with close to 1,000 other people. We headed out to Manly Beach, although in our jet-lagged trance we missed the beautiful part and just sat at the ferry terminal sipping a cold cider and eating prawns. 

Suddenly, tiredness engulfed us and it was time to head back to the hotel. We swiftly changed our clothes and hopped into bed by 8:00pm. 

A glorious 13 hours later, we awoke, ready to take on the day. With much disappointment we opened our curtains to see rain. That was OK, I was able to retrieve my phone by taking the subway back to the airport. I love taking public transportation, this where you find the heart of any city or town. You see how local people interact with their environment. I also was able to go to George Street (much like 5th Avenue), as I was having computer issues and needed to visit the Apple Store. (This is when I realized I am completely dependent on technology…check my email when I wake up, check Facebook while brushing my teeth, and text while running). 

Anyway, this evening we also signed up for a dinner cruise. Emily and I boarded a large boat with several 70 somethings and overpaid for a buffet, which could have been on any dinner cruise in the USA. We did manage to see the fireworks among large drops of rain (it was Australia Day). Hey, we were tourists, it’s what we do. 

The next day, it continued to rain, so we darted in and our of stores, to which I refused to do much spending. Later in the evening we again overpaid and went to a ritzy, nuovo sushi restaurant- when all of a sudden, I spotted a rat. The rat proceeded to whiz in between tables, however when I saw it on the bench of the sunken table we were seated at, I jumped up. The hostess quickly moved us to a new table away from where our rodent friend was spotted. We thought we would be compensated, at least for a drink, but no such luck. 

On the morning of our third day, we headed off to Paddy's Market. Being the nice Irish bird that I am, thoughts about Celtic Crosses, Guinness, and Cable Knit Sweaters came to mind. On the contrary...this is China Town! Anything you would ever want is in this large market, anything from trinkets to clothes to fruits, veggies, spices, and meats. Quite interesting! I did score some really comfy, colorful, and 'oh so, south pacific' pants and a pair of shorts :) 

Seems to be a trend-the Maori (New Zealand) saying is also: Good Will To All Man Kind

 On our third day, we decided to again play “Tommy tourist” and did the much talked about Bridge Climb. It was an experience, all-be-it- in the pouring rain. I mean it was raining so hard, I thought I felt hail. I would recommend this tour, however what I later found out is that for a MUCH smaller fee you can climb the tower, get a little history of the bridge, and get the same view. OR for the low-low cost of FREE, you can walk across the bridge. Oh well, I am very happy to have experienced it. I conquered a little fear of heights and saw some amazing views. 

I MADE IT@ (YOUTUBE VIDEO OF ME AT THE TOP)

Our last night in Sydney was by far my favorite. We were able to walk through the Botanical Gardens. It was quiet and peaceful as the glowing sun was setting on Sydney and the flowers, trees, and vines danced in this dim light. What a magical way to see my new love, the city of Sydney. We then meandered our way to the Opera House. Had a drink by the harbour, listened to music, and had a late dinner. It was a crisp and clear evening and the city glowed. 

Sydney Harbour at night

Sydney Harbour At Dusk (YouTube)

On our last day, Emily was flying out to Cairns, so she packed up early. However, I had a bit of time before my flight to Wellington, so I was able to take a FREE walking tour. This was fabulous. I learned the history of Australia and Sydney, saw places that I never would have found otherwise and met some interesting people. I met three single women in their late 20s-early 30s all from the UK. They each were traveling separately. All of them had primarily traveled the world ALONE. They either signed up for group tours or met people in their travels and traveled to see them. I was so intrigued by this and equally inspired. The women had been to China, the USA, the South Pacific, Japan, and Africa all on organized tours. After my conversation with them, I had this huge desire to travel, and to travel alone, what a novel idea! Perhaps their bank accounts aren’t as limited as mine, but I will be researching tours in Africa and Asia. I’m quite keen on this idea of single travel and meeting new people. We’ll see what the future holds. 

Australia's Coat of Arms- The only country in the world that eats its Coat of Arms animals: Kangaroo and Emu
Little Fun Fact: Both animals do not walk backwards, it is said that Australia hopes to never go backwards in time. 

Alley with bird cages hanging and bird noises being played. No worries here, there aren't real birds in the cages, but the names of indigenous birds are carved into the ground.



After this marvelous tour, I retraced my steps to the Customs House (part of the public library), sat outside in the sunshine and had a leisurely lunch, listening to music and watching people. I then went back to the hotel, retrieved my bags and headed off for the next part of my journey. Wellington.