A Welcome Friendly Visit

Exploring With A Friend

This past week I welcomed a friend, MJ, to the Land of the Long White Cloud (Aotearoa/New Zealand). We explored areas of Wellington, had some adventures in the South Island,  and  ran (quite literally) around some twists and turns.

Hiking the Abel Tasman National Park

Around each bend of our Aotearoa adventure we were in awe of the natural beauty of the world and felt truly blessed. I felt blessed not only for the stunning views and opportunity to explore, but also to be with a friend who was easy going and appreciative, who has a zest of life, and who helped me to appreciate all that this spectacular land has to offer. 

Below are from our travels around Welly. 

Now that's a farmers market! 

Botanic Gardens

 

Don't do it! Pushing the naked man in!

 Lord of the Rings, Te Papa

Largest squid ever caught, now frozen in time, Te Papa. 

MJ was a trooper, she arrived late on Saturday night and got up early on Sunday to explore Wellington. A cloudy day meant we hit the farmers market briefly and visited Te Papa Museum . I had not had a chance to visit the museum so I found the museum to have wonderful exhibits, be family friendly, cover a variety of topics, and it's FREE!

We then met up with my fellow Fulbright Teacher Scholar and good friend, Seth. We had a leisurely dinner, came home and packed for the next three days, where we would visit the South Island.

On the InterIslander Ferry!

A bit cloudy but we brought the sunshine!

After arriving and renting a car (yes, I drove...with no accidents, if I do say so), we did a tour at the vineyards in Blenheim. The colors and tastes proved to be radiant.

 

 Views of the vineyards with the mountains in the background.

The colors are as vibrant as the people in New Zealand, with generous bursts of brilliance.













Our second day was a long drive on 'cruisy' country roads. Breathtaking!

More sheep than people, with mountains in the background.

 Stopped by the Nelson Lakes on our drive to Motueka.

Finally, we arrived at our hostel (yup, there's a first time for everything!). It was perfect, as we met some interesting people who gave us wonderful tips about NZ and traveling. 

The next day, and I have to say this was my favorite day, we took a water taxi up the coast from Kaiteriteri to the Abel Tasman National Park and then did a short 3 hour trek (hike). I have been very lucky to have  seen some beautiful places in my life, but this was like nothing I have seen. Around every turn the turquoise water was in view and the lush greenery was overhead. We heard lots of birds, especially the Tui- who sounds likes the mocking jay from Hunger Games.

 Listen to the sounds we heard on our trek! Tui in the Tasman Abel 

First swing bridge!

A little scary! I decided if I'm nervous crossing the swing bridge, bungy jumping is probably not in my future :( 

  

 I just can't get enough! No filters here. These ARE the real colors!

*Sea urchin and octopus *

After our hike and tour of Abel Tasman, we drove the twisty roads back to Picton. Again, we stayed in another hostel (an interesting experience-glad I packed an extra set of sheets!). Our final day concluded with a breakfast of DELICIOUS donuts and swimming with the dolphins. We weren't actually able to swim with the dolphins because the ones we saw were Hector's Dolphins, who are protected. However, they came up to play and sprinkled our toes with their breath! 

 




See the dolphins at play!Hector's Dolphins
Some interesting facts:
-Dolphins' brains have more emotional capacity for empathy than people (I think we can learn a thing or two!).
-Hector's Dolphins are some of the smallest dolphins and are protected by New Zealand Government.
-Dolphins use echolocation to send out "clicks" and then receive the vibration back to "read" it.
-Because of the echolocation, Dolphins can often detect an unborn child's heartbeat even before the mother knows she's pregnant. Dolphins are often attracted to humans who are pregnant because of the double heartbeat. If you are a woman swimming, you may not know you're pregnant but a dolphin will!
Find out more on Te Ara (New Zealand's AMAZING encyclopedia)

After our brush with the dolphins, we lazily boarded the ferry back to the North Island. On Friday night we went to the Night Market on Cuba Street with all its brilliant sounds, sights, and smells~Wellington Night Market! We also visited Zealandia (wildlife santuary in the middle of Welly) and the Wellington Botanic Gardens . We had a beautiful dinner at Bryan and Michelle's on Saturday night and on Sunday I ran the 1/2 marathon, Round the Bays. It was a spectacular race and one I will never forget. Sadly, on Monday I had to say goodbye to my lovely friend, however the memories and friendship will be forever lasting. 

tēnā koutou

    Visiting the Waiwhetu Marae (pronounced: why-fay-too,  mar-i with the long i sound)

tēnā koutou (ten-a (short "a" sound), ko-toe) in the Maori language is the plural form for hello, however it seems to hold more meaning, such as hello, thank you, and welcome all wrapped in one. During Fulbright Orientation, we had the fortunate opportunity to stay overnight at the Waiwhetu Marae. A marae is a communal or sacred place that serves religious and social purposes in Polynesian societies, specifically the Maori people in New Zealand (people and language pronounced: more-ee, with a rolled "r").  

Maori has had a resurgence in the last 20 years or so... For example, in New Zealand there are Maori tv and radio stations. Maori is used by most people in correspondence as a greeting ("Kia Ora Kate"), newscasters use Maori to greet people ("Kia Ora, Good evening, welcome to the 5pm news"), signs are both in English and Maori, there are Maori only schools (Kuru), and some schools are considered Maori immersion, where both Maori and English are spoken. Government websites are both in English and Maori. There is an emphasis to restore and keep the language and heritage alive.  

A bit of history:  The Māori people of Aortearoa (New Zealand) arrived by 1300 AD. There is debate about how many waka (sea-faring canoes, pronounced wok-a (short vowel)) arrived and exactly where they started. Some say that they made their way from Ratonga (Cook Islands), while others say they came from Radiate (Society Islands). However, similarity of place names and languages suggests a link between these islands and New Zealand. What is amazing is that these brave people chartered the stormy waters in these magnificent canoes. Waka are still used today for ceremonies and during specific times of year. The waka you see below are still in use, however are kept inside. (2/15/2015, http://www.tepapa.govt.nz)

Back of the waka

Front of the waka

Front of the waka

Video of rowing the waka

In 1640, British explorer James Cook was on a quest for the "Great Southern Continent" and came upon New Zealand, instead of Antarctica. He thought New Zealand would be a good place to harvest naval supplies (from the trees and bush= timber) and oil (from the abundance of seals). Thus, colonization began. Interestingly, there is large connection between the whaling industry in New Bedford, MA, Nantucket, MA and New Zealand. Many of the sea captains from these areas in Massachusetts came to New Zealand in search of oil.

In 1840, the Treaty of Waitangi was signed between representatives of Queen Victoria of England and more than 500 Maori chiefs who represented many tribes throughout the country. The Treaty of Waitangi was supposed to establish law and government in New Zealand. The English version of the treaty stated that sovereignty (power) would be given to the Queen of England, however the way it was translated into Maori misrepresented sovereignty.  The debate still continues to this day.

What is for sure is that the Maori people have a rich history and hold fast to their traditions and customs. As Fulbright Scholars we were welcomed onto their marae and experienced some of these traditions. We were welcomed onto the marae (as all guests are) in a pōwhiri (formal welcome ceremony, pronounced poe-for-ee).  After this ceremony visitors become part of the wharna (farna, extended family) and at the conclusion of this ceremony, it is as if to say  "this is now your home and you are welcome here".

Powhiri Video and Information 

When one enters the marae a woman will come out and call to the visiting group, then a woman from the visiting group will respond. The karanga (call) is used to invite strangers to enter the marae and for the visitors to introduce themselves. It is a way to state your intentions, either coming as friend or foe. The women walk onto the marae grounds first and the men are in the back to protect the women if an enemy were to attack from behind. Shoes are taken off  before entering (to keep the marae clean and pure); the men then enter the building first, women second. At the doorway the hongi occurs (touching noses)  and a ceremony ensues. 

Meaning of Hongi

During the ceremony gifts are offered from the visitors (usually in the form of gold coins), songs are sung by both hosts and visitors, and speeches are made. 

He tangata takahi manuhiri, he marae puehu

A person who mistreats his guest has a dusty Marae (Meeting house)

We were greeted with warmth and kindness. After the karanga, we had afternoon tea. Before each meal a blessing is made. Seth, my fellow Fulbright teacher scholar, sang his beautiful song for our first meal, "Live Everyday" "Live Everyday" (song by Seth Hoffman, fellow Fulbrighter)

After the blessing, we ate and ate and ate! What feasts! Not only were our meals delicious, our communion together was inspiring. During our meals we had beautiful and enriching conversations.

During our stay we also learned a great deal about the marae and Maori heritage by having some amazing speakers. 

Speaker, Amber Kiri Aranui, who is from Te Papa Museum , she is in charge of repatriation of Maori remains.

Activity we did: We drew where our ancestors settled and then others kept taking pieces of our drawings/land. Discussion followed about how we felt having our land and heritage taken away, much like the Maori people. 

Kura Moeahu, who discussed the Treaty of Waitangi with us.

The inside of the marae. Beautiful carvings and weavings. The inside of the marae represents the inside of the body.

Weavings on the wall, represents "stairway to heaven".

Upon leaving the marae the next day, we-the visitors- sang a song to show our gratitude, as well, our hosts sang a song, and we again closed with the hongi (touching of noses). 

This was an exceptional experience. There was a sense of peace felt by all, feelings of mutual respect for our surroundings, much learning, several moments of laughter, and there was a connection to each other, the natural world, and our ancestors.

Fellow Fulbright Distinguished Awards in Teaching Recipients outside of the Waiwhetu Marae. 

Farewall Song

E hoa ma, ina te ora o te tanager

My friends, this is the essence of life